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Journeys : October November 2009
and immediately can't remember the details of it. When it's really good I don't think about anything but getting more waves until I'm too tired or too cold to surf at all. It's then when I usually find myself most thankful for a place like this secret beach. I'll be sitting in the water waiting for a wave and think 'Wow, I'm in the middle of nowhere' -- and that's my favourite place in the world. Do I think about sharks? In that kind of situation, the answer is yes. But my philosophy is that if a shark wants to eat me, it will -- I'll be digested and passed back into the sea. Then I'd be part of this special place forever, which is fine by me. Respecting and protecting landscapes like this on our island is something I feel very strongly about. All Tasmanians have their ow n special place -- next time you're somewhere that makes you appreciate being alive, think about what you can do to aid its longevity. I like to make an IOU of five bits of beach r ubbish -- rope ends, plastic bottles, buoys, bait cages -- to pick up whenever I get one of those feelings. Less impact, more conser vation, greater appreciation, leaving a place cleaner than you found it -- they're simple principles and achievable objectives for everyone's slice of the island. Shaun Wallbank is a surfer, freelance writer and all-round waterman. When he's not chasing big waves he's writing his weekly surfing column for The Mercury or practising holding his breath in the backyard pool. This year he competed in his first World Qualifying Series trials in the O'Neill Coldwater Classic event at Marrawah. Shaun enjoys fishing, cooking and bushwalking, usually with a surfboard under his arm. He has been an RACT member since 2000. Sam Shelley Sam Shelley Yarran Crichton In Tasmania today 39 October / November 09
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Dec Jan 2010